There are several ways to grow chilli plants. Is it a pet project because you like chili?, they just give fruits in a hurry (i.e.. professionnelle gartnerier) – is an experiment in hydroponic culture – or want to explore how big the plants can be or how many chillies they can produce under the 'optimum’ (a challenge in DK) conditions.
My approach is to produce healthy plants with a taste optimum yield – mængden af frugter er mindre væsentlig, there is always a plant more…
A prolific and productive chilli plants require light, heating, food and space. The latter both in the pot / ground and in the air space devoted to the.
An important point is that you can grow chillies in almost all housing. It does not require greenhouse, conservatory, smart lamps and heat. The thing helps and can make chili grower life easier, and extend the season – but you can get really good plants and fruit in a plain windowsill in an apartment. I've even done for many years, before I was lucky enough to get gas and now have invested in equipment.
When I describe below here chilidyrkningen, it is on the basis of their own experience – and naturally seasoned with what I've picked up knowledge along the way over the years from other. And there will come more to. New exciting theories and ideas tend to emerge when the chili people share their experiences – and many are tested.
Are there other ways than my? Ja da. So it's just about to get started experimenting. Enjoy.
Seeds for chilli cultivation can grab in many ways. Perhaps the most obvious is to buy them in a physical store or online where the choice is often much larger. Chilifrø must be fit and healthy – not contain fungal spores and other things can ruin the upcoming plant. It may therefore be a good idea to buy them from a (like online) business you trust and who has a good reputation when it comes to delivering healthy products. If you are setting their sights on a few, very specific chili as you want to grow and you do not want to risk poor germination etc.. – is one such business a relatively safe way to get good, healthy seeds of.
It is of course also possible to buy seeds from less' known’ sources. Især online kan man finde rigtig mange som sælger egne eller videreformidlede frø. Her tager man nok en lidt større chance med frøene i forhold til 100% sikkerhed for ‘rene’ and sound seeds – with it can also be here that as the only place, is just the special chili you've been looking for.
It is not hard even to take seeds from a delicious chili has been found – it just has to be before you cook it. Maybe you got a plant or bag of fruit to take home from the supermarket or from a resolute chili lover, that just hits the taste buds in the right places.
If you have been to such a handful delicious, ripe chillies and after having tasted the first just completely sold and will grow plant – or more plants, one can simply take the seeds from a great, healthy and ripe chilli and so direct. You pick out the seeds and put them in fertile soil, etc.. See more on that further down the page.
If you want to sow the seeds, but just not right now, they can be left to dry on a paper towel at room temperature for a few weeks, until they are bone dry and then stored until you are ready to sow. Remember to write your name and date already on kitchen roll – before you know it says plate energy with paper towels and chilifrø around and the confusion is total.
The seeds can now be saved until you are ready for the big experiment.
Chiles taken out of the freezer can also give sprout willing seed. Perhaps germination rate is not as high – but then one could just as plentiful. The main thing is that you take the seeds of healthy, fully ripe fruits. The fruits are allowed to have sat on the plant as long as they are just beginning to wrinkle easily.
Chilifrø is not so delicate, I have found out. Ihvertilfælde not the ones that I have had – og det er dog en del med tiden.
It is possible to germinate seeds which are several years old – how many years they can be saved I do not know and have not heard of others who dare say anything more precise.
While I store my seeds in the paper- or small plastic Grip Seal, which often comes in from dealers. Additional bags sold several places online. See links.
My seed is then laid in a drawer, where they are well and dry until needed. I relate no further for storage temperature. They are just at the current room temperature.
I know that some are experimenting with storing them in the freezer, but do not yet know the outcome.
One thing is for sure though – they must be kept bone dry.
All the time – if you have conditions and enhancement to the. Ellers er fra ca. først/midt i januar til marts et godt tidspunkt for en sensommerhøst i Danmark. The slightly slower varieties you can try out in November / December, hvis man har mulighed for at give planterne tilskudslys.
Chilifrø germinate best at a relatively high and uniform temperaur. It is easy as most of them at room temperature and have a good result, but some are a little more delicate.
The seeds generally prefer a little more heat than we have in our living rooms – gerne omkring 28-30 grader for at spire optimalt. If you have an ordinary and usual kinds of seeds, should probably be successful in the lower temperature, but the more "difficult’ Seeds need more heat. Seeds where, by germination rate is low, must try to provide optimal conditions. It can eg. be new hybrids are not entirely stable in properties even – or just a hot-consuming black.
In addition to heat, have seeds need moisture to germinate, but must not mushrooms in hiking. Therefore, it is important to create a humid atmosphere – ie when also the humidity is high right around the seed. If you sow in bare soil and do not cover it with plastic or similar, you can for a time create moisture on the seeds by the natural evaporation from såmediet, men det kan være endog meget svært at opretholde den rigtige mængde væske i potten for at skabe det forhold.
You can do several other things instead. A transparent or white plastic bag on the pot can retain moisture. There should be cut a few small holes in the bag, for at der kan komme en smule udluftning i gang og det hele stilles lidt lunt.
You can also buy little mini greenhouses for the windowsill giving the same conditions and may appeal to the eye a little more.
Some choose to so on a piece of moistened paper towel, laid in a transparent bag in a warm place. As soon as you see the little buds peeping out of the seeds, they are moved gently in a pot where they can continue to grow.
Both the bag sowing and potting can place the seeds near a radiator. Try to find a place where they ca. 28 – 30 grader rammes. It may be on a chair or other raised in the appropriate distance from the radiator, until the seeds have germinated.
I wound usually chili in small plastic pots with holes in the bottom, filled with so- and drained seed compost which can be purchased in particular. plant centers and even well-stocked supermarkets. The pots are filled almost up, ground lightly pressed together and watered until it is moist, not pladdervåd. 2 – 3 chilifrø lægges i potten med min. et par cm imellem og der drysses en lille ½ cm jord eller vermiculite over. Hvis potten skal i varmekasse, set it in this on a Dampen had (Such a one is typically supplied with box) and I stick a soil thermometer in one of the pots, to check that there is neither too hot or cold. The lid on the hot box, dampers close completely and turn on the heating element. My box is thermostatically Board, so that it heats evenly fine. I check the soil temperature with a few hours for the first time you turn on the box – og når jeg rammer ca 28 – 30 grader lader jeg den være i fred. Once a day I look eagerly to the pots to see if something has happened and dries any. dew of the lid. Are lightly watered if necessary.
I use pots with drainage holes. The pots can be easily reused, men sørg for at de er helt rene mellem hver brug, så der ikke overføres smitte af nogen slags. Potterne fyldes med så- og priklejord som vandes godt igennem.
Place plant signs in, læg det ønskede antal frø på jorden og pres dem let ned mod den fugtige jord med bagsiden af en ske eller en finger – keep an eye on the seeds sticking to the spoon or your finger.
Emphasis is a layer of vermiculite around. ½ inches above the seeds – and now watered forward very cautiously. Jeg bruger en plasticpipette indtil frøene er spiret. Strålen fra en vandkande kan nemt spule de små frø rundt i potten og slå de helt nye spirer ned. Man camps evt. Use a spoon or similar instead – or just be more careful with watering than I apparently.
Then pot holders in hot Checkout. Jeg sætter et lille jordtermometer i en af potterne så højt oppe i jorden som jeg kan få det til at holde balancen. Der lægges låg på kassen og termostaten indstilles til en jordtemperatur på ca. 28 – 30 grader. Så er det bare at vente og vande jævnligt med pipetten.
When chilies are germinated, they must be taken out of the hot box and can now be placed under artificial light or in a window sill where they get as much daylight as possible.
Some sprouts may need help to throw the seed coat, but the vast majority are doing now the case even.
Det tager fra få dage til over en måned inden frøene spirer. Langt de fleste spirer på mellem 5 og 10 dage – men det er bestemt ikke usædvanligt at det tager kortere og især længere tid. Nogle sorter er langsommere end andre, forholdene spiller ind osv.
It's a good idea to wait to deal with the small plants on in the process so they have at least two sets of leaves. Herefter lader jeg dem enten stå i potten – if there was only a seed that germinated – or Prikler them in a pot each, if there are more.
Jeg spirer i potter med en diameter på 4 – 6 cm – so they are plenty big to chillies can live the first long period of time herein. De stilles nu alle på et bord i det lune rum – i underpotter eller på vandingsbakker.
Når planterne har fået de første 6-8-10 blade eller flere, forærer jeg dubletterne væk – or throw them out if no one wants them – I always walk in to many different ift. Square – så der er som regel ikke albuerum til flere af hver hjemme hos mig. There are a few exceptions – especially when I experimented with different ratios of the same variety, etc..
Chiliplantens slutstørrelse får til en vis grad lov til at afgøre hvilken pottestørrelse de skal have her hos mig. Der pottes op af nogle gange, when the chili needs it. It can eg. be: såpotten – 1 liter – 4 liter – 10 liter.
Chiliens final size you must try Google to. Try to find information in different places, when not all agree on the individual chili size. There are also differences in what one should expect to obtain the size of the variety in the different latitudes.
The need for opplantning can be seen by the chili starts to look a little big out of the pot and the roots begin to fill the pot completely out, can chili plant definitely like to get something bigger.
I use large plastic pots with drainage holes. In plant centers and major plant departments can buy some pretty powerful dark gray pots, which did not bother my mind too much and they are available in many sizes. So watching the whole menagerie little uniformly even though the pots in different sizes.
Earth which I use most often indoors is common potting soil for indoor plants. Outside in the large jars are the potting soil for containers and window boxes as smoking in. There's nothing else in my pots. No Leca something good. Some swear to improve the soil with granulated clay, vermiculite or perlite – but I have not found it necessary to chillies.
If a chili plant has become a bit leggy, it is advantageous to put it deeper in the next pot. Arrow leaves within the new ground level and fill with fresh soil. The plant will form new roots from the trunk, which then helps to absorb nutrients. I always put chili plants as deep as it makes sense (without covering the top leaves) At first oppotning.
How big pots must give his chili plants? Tjah, It depends on several things. In principle, growing chilli plants for the space they have available. They grow as much as they can now in the given space, then put the flowers, then fruits and everyone is happy and you can get early fruits of having plants in small pots. It goes a long way also true, but there may be a few challenges.
It can be difficult to keep a potentially very large plant in a small pot with enough water and nutrients – so we need to think about how often you have to water it. Some chilli varieties are by nature very tall and lanky before they set fruit – they can be difficult to tie up and balancing on opbindingspinde in a small pot with the largest weight is ex. 80 cm over potten – guess they look. Not all plants can provide reasonable yield in a very small pot – some plants must have a certain size unless they give any.
Having said, then it's just trial and error. I think items. it makes lots of sense to have two of each kind of some varieties – and then put them in several pot sizes and therefore have longer season on favorite chillies.
While the plants are small, skal de holdes let fugtige og ikke gødes det første stykke tid. There are good enough not much (often no) nourishment in that- and priklejorden, but they eat not so much in the beginning. It can Svidene plant small fine fimrerødder, if given the strong fertilizer before it even have strong enough roots to handle it. When planters making the pots up in a good pottemuld, there are plenty of nutrients to the plant for at least a few weeks. Here are all just watered. If you choose to use SuperThrive, it can be added to the water from the first irrigation in new land.
When the first few weeks of the new pot is examined, the plant should be fed. Otherwise it has no chance of producing the fine harvest of tasty fruits that we expect. It will probably make little fruit without fertilization, men udbyttet og smagen bliver afgjort ikke det samme og planten vil som regel få mangelsymptomer og måske endda gå til før der kan høstes.
You can use different kinds of fertilizer. It is important to use something which is intended for edible cereals, if one wishes to be sure to avoid the undesirable substances in the fruit. Then it is optimal to look at, what kind of a plant type to fertilize – what is this plantetypes need for nutritional composition – Here, it is especially NPK ratio that may be of interest. A Googling provides links to a lot of discussion about whatever may be right for chilli plants and at what stage of chilli plant life, if you want to go into such detail.
A conventional greenhouse fertilizer provides fine and healthy plants with good yield. Such an I used for many years. A tomato fertilizer is given by half concentration is also very good. Chili and tomato are family (they are both 'Natskygger').
Today I spend most two things. A decidedly chili fertilizer: GT Chilifocus, I used these in a thin solution at each watering (together with SuperThrive). De store chilipotter ude i drivhuset får derudover en par generøse håndfulde eller 4 af tørret hønsegødning (i.e.. Animix) When potted up in them. I'm watching my plants and looks at the growth and leaf phrase, color m.m. is that I want – otherwise there must be adjusted.
Watering takes place with normal tap water containing added nutrients described above. I water when the plants need and tend them carefully so they are paddling in hot periods (sunny days in mid-summer) and much easier dosage such that the soil just moist in cooler. Chili Plants from the soil dries out slightly between waterings, but obviously not so much that the leaves hang and thirst. It is an exercise that you mastered gradually. In the beginning, When chilies are in smaller pots, one can learn to lift the pot with the plant and mark whether it is dry, or whether it has a heaviness that indicates that there is still water in the soil. Det er ikke en mulig øvelse med 20 liters potter i drivhuset synes jeg – so here it is a little more on gefühl.
Chili plants will not be damaged by drying out so they hang around with the leaves once or two – but it is my experience that they do not have to do it constantly – so they do not grow optimally. Og en træt og halvvissen plante er desuden en invitation til svamp og skadedyr.
If you have your plants inside, it may be advantageous to water them in a saucer, where the plant can absorb water from the bottom instead of water the soil from above. How can you keep the surface soil dry, without chilli plant will be short of water. But when the chili plant in warm periods need some water, you can also get to pour so much in the pot that it provides a surface soil that is moist enough to sørgemyg think it's nice to stay in and swarms of. Although the small fly-like things do harm to adult plants – they are not as delicious to have in a big way on the windowsill, I think. To the waters (herein to mean: water from below) eliminates not sure mosquitoes if watering so much that the earth draws humid up right up to the surface constantly. So try to find a balance. Having bowl should, however, be large enough to be watered a reasonable amount of water at a time in the. A saucer as' just right’ the pot is too small, I think.
May form a white, harmless mold on the surface of the moist soil in combination with stagnant air. Therefore you see it often requires. The solution is easy drying, like watering from below – and the white mold can just messing around easily in the soil with a fork electricity. – then it's gone again.
In a warm period where the plants are very thirsty, there is a relatively high evaporation from the leaves. Here one should not provide fertilizer at each watering – but the waters with plenty of clean water in between. Alternatively, you can accumulate for many fertilizer residues in the soil and the plant can get uncomfortable. På meget varme dage kan det være at de skal have vand flere gange om dagen. Keep an eye on them and water before you go to work, If you know that the day gets hot. Kig saw them igen when at home. Both in greenhouse and south- or west-facing window sill can easily dry out in a short time. Again: use large saucers and fyd well with water when the day gets hot.
They say, moreover,, if chillies just get absolutely the water as they can survive on, becomes the strongest in the flavor. However, if they are kept very wet they become milder. I have no idea if appropriate – det er ikke et eksperiment som jeg har udført endnu (on purpose) – but it might be fun to try with two identical chili plants by occasion.
A chilli plant has to use a lot of light. Helst ikke under 12 timer i døgnet og gerne mere. How far chillies actually need a dark period of rest each day, I have not been able to find any definite info on, men lyset er en nødvendighed for at få gode planter.
The temperature must also be in order. Within the framework a Danish summer offers, states that the hotter the better. So in the 'high growth period’ during the summer it is a good idea to let chillies get the warm seats in the house and / or garden.
How far they thrive in the open or in a greenhouse in our climate is very different. You can try to read up a bit on the different chili varieties and experiment with some cold tolerant outside in the open air. Most works well in a greenhouse.
Light and heat go hand in hand. A chili in a very hot room must have really very light and during cooler conditions, you can settle for a little less.
I grow both chilli plants in window frames with sunlight as the only source, on the floor and tables in a room with LED grow light, outside in the greenhouse and some experiments with chili plants uncovered outdoor. The latter I have not had much luck with – but I know that others have succeeded with the project covered, but not closed, terrace.
On the windowsill, the project makes sense only in the summer in our latitudes due. the light quantity and the same applies to the greenhouse because. temperatures.
Chili Plants in a winter windowsill with daylight as the only light source can survive if one dispenses water quantity sensible, but pretty, they are not and harvest, there is not much of. In return, they shoot him and put flowers and fruit long before the year sowed the coming spring. I'll write more about this discipline at a later date.
To yield to chiler under normal Danish conditions must therefore hour project with sowing in time and hope for a sensible sunny, warm summer. I skrivende stund ved udgangen af sommeren 2012 har det været et elendigt chiliår. There has been too little light and heat and chillies ripen very late. We cross our fingers for a long and delicious indian summer.
At the beginning of the season where you have the small plants in the windowsill – to look a little on the sun if there is much of the. Chili plants are not acclimated to stand in strong sunlight can become scorched, evidenced by the pale, ash blade – they are sunburnt. If it is a small plant can be fatal to the. One must hasten to give it a little shade. Inside it could be moved a meter into the room away from the window sill until it is more hardened or you can use light, light curtains. The greenhouse also helps curtains or liming of south-facing roof and maybe pages. The plants will usually recover and the slow adaptation to almost any chili plants could stand in full sun in Denmark. I sill can be a good idea to turn chillies a quarter turn every day, to give the whole plant a reasonable amount of light. Hvis planten er bundet op på 4 støttepinde for at give den højde i stedet for bredde, it can also be a good idea to dilute it a bit in the middle, to light also can come to hitting the leaves here.
The sunburnt leaves there is not much to do about – de kan pilles af.
When it's good and warm outside, may chillies come in greenhouse. If you have the patience to harden them (out in the greenhouse during the day and inside the house at night), there are some who say that it is a good idea. I do not own the patience. They come out in the greenhouse on a warm day without too much direct sun and they can stay there. The model has been magnificent so far. The night temperature should be high enough, in order not to stop the growth of the plants chili – for low temperature can stop them for a shorter or longer period. Min erfaring indtil nu siger helst over 10-12 grader når de kommer ud, litteraturen siger over 15, men 10-12 virker for mine i drivhus. Here you can orient themselves using DMI or use one of those fancy thermometers showing my. and max. temperature over a period. Jeg gør det sidste og når der nogle døgn i træk har været 10 grader eller over om natten inde i drivhuset og DMI lover acceptable grader, I dare to put them out. After hearing the experiences of others to put them a little earlier out, I will next season also try me even earlier – og opdaterer dette afsnit derefter.
The daily round for plants, is for me a big part of growing chilli. It is my source of great pleasure to discover something new on the plants. Perhaps there skipped the first flowers on one, another must be nipped, some small fruiting bodies begin to show, of a plant is the first chili by changing the color to ripening, a must potted up and another hangs around with his beak and must be investigated. All together, it helps to entertain and enrich my experience with plants.
I'm trying to keep my chillies healthy. Give them the space they need, as good nutrition and good light as I have the opportunity. They are usually only water when they need and I remove diseased and dead material from them and their pots.
It will not be easy to convince me of that speech and singing to the plants would have no positive effect – but the daily round with little tiny grooming think I really batter compared to keep them in top condition.
At the round within the chilli flowers also pollinated. Out in the greenhouse to insects and a light breeze from time to time enough left for the part – but within the most frequently little help. Plan Tern shaken look when faced with flowers – it's just that easy to snap branches or take gently grasp and shake them easily. Chili is self-pollinating, so there should not be pollen from one flower to another.
Some chili plants are very stubborn – Here you have to help a little with a soft brush. Man opdager det når planten gennem længere tid bliver ved med at smide blomsterne, even if all other conditions are met. I have finally experienced it with a Peruvian Purple. Andre igen – især chinenserne – smider en del blomster, before they begin to keep them and put fruit.
When it succeeded in pollination, it is always an enjoyable process to follow the new small chili from the looms in the flower's center and they gradually become real chili.
Greenhouse team clean and escape from in order to avoid mold. På alle sommerdage og i de varme nætter står dørene åbne.
Det kan være en god idé at fjerne den gamle blomsterkrans, som nogle gange bliver siddende på chilien og strammer om frugten. Den er let at fjerne, men må også være stærk da den kan lave dybe spor i frugten. Hvor den sidder kan der ophobe sig fugt, med svamp til følge og skadedyr vil finde det et godt sted at få fodfæste – så pil dem af når du ser dem.
Man kan ønske at opbinde og nippe sine chilier af flere årsager.
Nipning of the first flowers and flower buds – and should I think – performed to get the plant to grow further, before embarking on fruit set.
Chili plants are genetically programmed to spread like other plants. This means that the 'purpose’ for a chili plant is to grow to a suitable size, where it can put a reasonable number of fruits, with enough seeds to ensure the further propagation and survival of the stock of just its own kind. A chili will grow to the size of the 'brands’ that there is room for – and so get formed some flowers and subsequent fruit that can mature, so the seeds can be spread.
But sometimes you – perhaps intentionally – a chili stand in the plant a little small pot. If it has a size in which it can start the process, it will therefore go ahead with flowers. If you would like to have some early chilli fruits to reap the, it may be a good idea to let it do so. Challenge, that when the chili plant believes that it has finished producing fruit, it has no reason to continue with this or to live more. Finished with the.
Maybe we want to get a little more out of the plant – it will usually be greater than when it gets the first flowers appear we. Therefore, we look at two things. Signs chilli plant in the final size pot? – otherwise it is now a good time to pot up to the next and perhaps final pot size, as it is then to be allowed to grow in complete. The next thing we look at is, the chilli plant has a reasonable size to be start giving fruits. It does not necessarily have achieved the maximum size that we want, but it must be well on the way derhenimod. If it is big enough yet, we sip flower buds or open flowers of, indtil size of the plant is that we want. It is not a fixed number of flowers, but you decide how long to keep.
Here it is a good idea to look at what the plant's potential is. It does no good to put a max. 45 cm chili i en 20 liters potte og nippe 100 blomster af – it is not greater than it can. On the other hand, one can get nicely much extra growth out to nibble true, than not to do it.
Jeg synes at det med at holde de første 3 forgreninger fri for blomster virker optimalt for langt de fleste chilier. When you have little experience, one can begin to experiment with making small plants that empower faster fruits and large plants first fruits ripen later in the season. If you sow export. 3 planter af samme sort på samme tid, one can extend the period where you pick fresh fruits considerably by controlling the pot size and nipningen, such that one is pressed to provide earlier fruit, another gets the normal course and the last held back with longer nipning and possibly. larger pot, so as to provide fruit in the very last end of the season. Det ændrer ikke på plantens form at nippe blomster – den kommer til at se ud som den også ville have gjort uden nipning (måske blot lidt større). Her kan man med fordel også tage højde for om planten skal vokse i en vindueskarm og dermed ikke være kæmpestpr – eller om den eks. skal i et drivhus og gerne må fylde alt det den kan.
It can also be a good idea to remove some of the large leaves and maybe keep the trunk clean to get a new standard look in the chili. It can be done with most chili types (not the really bushy). Whether you think it looks good is a matter of taste – but it can be handy to keep the earth clean (and perhaps to see it at all). At the same time, you can grow somewhat lower in the chili. I often make it with herbs and preferably darling of the lower herbs: basil.
You should not sip leaves before the plant has had a good growth and has begun to divide. In the picture below, I want to remove the large leaves of the stem.
The leaves pinched off with a nail or cut with a sharp, clean scissors to the stem.
For the same reason (creating air during the chili), it might be smart to tie them up. It's also a good idea to tethering of plants with heavy fruit, so the branch does not break off. It may also be easier fruits like sitting in such large quantities on the branches that the plant will need help to carry them.
I have tried me with all sorts of weird home knitting frames and barn and much more fun – men bruger nu udelukkende bambuspinde og Soft Tie.
Som regel er det nok at binde de 4 grene op som løber ud fra anden forgrening. They get a stick every branch carefully tied in place with Soft Tie. When the plant grows to, additional support may be required – maybe the branches just headed further up the sticks – maybe you need more. It is ihvertilfælde sin if our fine harvest break off.
Both the windowsill and in the greenhouse can be a sensible staking provide plenty of extra space for more chillies (something good). Many of chili plants grow out of itself in a large, wide umbrella shape, making up much space in scope. By tying them up, kan der ofte spares op til 3/4 af arealpladsen. You may of course not be tied so closely to the leaves become quite crowded together in the middle – use your common sense here.
When chili plants start to become big they can get 'tired’ blade. It is also seen at the end of the season. Some of the leaves – often the largest – begins to wilt slightly at the edges and look dull, while the rest are fine and the plant in general seems to have a good time. The leaves can easily remove. It looks great and the plant must not use gunpowder to keep them straight.
A chilli is said to be mature when it tastes optimally – at the time where there is full glare ¨ all the flavor nuances and they have not begun to degenerate again. How is it ihvertilfælde for most chillies. Some eaten green and unripe because it has been customary – and because many also tastes good on the stage.
Most green chilies considered to be unfinished in the taste until they receive their final color and then some.
How do you know when it is?
It is not nemt. On a good summer where it all goes strong, is chili fruits usually mature shortly after they have changed color. It can be a week or two. On a slow season with cooler weather – it may take several weeks extra. Some of the major chilli fruits can feel it on – it's hard to explain, they are like just crisp in the flesh instead of hard. If you press too much on them, it is not good – as said, it is not nemt. If one has a plant with a lot of apparent ripe fruit, one can taste a few and sense whether you think that they are ready. An immature chili tastes a bit towards green pepper or pods. Something like. So it may well have gained some strength if it is to the, but the taste may not be to turn cartwheels of excitement over. Then you have to wait a bit and try again.
Fresh chili stored for a short time in the refrigerator. Then wrinkles, like peppers (they are also in the family with – peppers belong to C. Annuum).
To keep them longer must freeze, tørre eller på anden måde præservere dem.
In the freezer keeps them really well. I pour mine in freezer bags – and slags chili pr. pose, the recognizable på – and use them the next year if the rows as long as. Make sure the bags are closed wisely – it goes fine. The texture is a little softer after freezing – but for most things do nothing.
Chili is suitable for drying – in particular, the thin-walled as a whole can be dried. They can be dried in the sun, in dehydrator or in the oven at minimum power. They may advantageously pierce a handful of times with a first skewer.
The more thick-walled to be divided into two. You can remove the cores and frøvægge if you want. Then wipe the above.
After drying, chillies crush or ground into flakes or powder – but why not wait until they are needed – they are ornamental direction as the.
Chili can be pickled and stored in a myriad of ways. Jeg vil forsøge at opdatere mit opskriftsafsnit med en del af husets foretrukne over tid.
Initially, I will refer to Mary's side – you'll find links to it on my links-side.
She has gathered a lot of info about the gripes you may encounter with his chili plants and described them really well.
I will update section here as I have documented it affecting me and my.
For some of the things that can hit chili plants, it can however be very difficult to identify what or who exactly the culprit is, as several disorders can have similar symptoms. It may be a bit of a ghost hunt to identify the right problem. Some are so obvious that one can easily get identified offender.
Lad os starte med den nemme. Har de fået vand nok – er jorden tør? Man skal ikke lade sine planter tørste til de står og hænger, det har de ikke godt af. De må gerne udtørre let mellem vandingerne. Det betyder at jorden lige når at tørre ud, men ikke så længe at planterne lider under det og begynder at hænge.
Det næste er høj varme. I et varmt drivhus eller en meget varm vindueskarm, kan planterne have svært ved at nå at optage lige så meget vand som de fordamper. Det betyder at bladene kan hænge i varmen selv om planten har rigeligt vand. De liver som regel op om aftenen igen når det bliver lidt køligere. Planterne må naturligvis ikke stå så varmt at de bliver ‘kogte’ og bladene ødelægges – men at de hænger let fordi det er varmt sker der normalt ikke store ved.
Chilier hviler sig om natten. Så hvis bladene på dine chilier hen under aften begynder at hænge og planten ellers har det godt og ikke mangler vand, så er den bare ved at slappe af for natten. Nedenfor her ses den samme plante fotograferet om morgenen og om aftenen. Planten har det godt og mangler ingenting.
Aphids are some really annoying beasts to get in his chili plants within. It is the sometimes also out, but there are many natural enemies, as noralt can do a good inroads. Out in the greenhouse can be made with advantage also helped a little to fight.
Lice multiply at lightning speed, so it is to intervene as soon as you notice the first. They show up at that one can see the little beasties crawling around especially leaf axils, new small SKUD and flowers / flower buds. On the upper side of the leaves, you will see the small white afkastede hudskeleter from their sloughing and the leaves will simultaneously be greasy their droppings. Yummy, not.
Lice, as stated tackled as soon as possible. Are there many – the first step is an attempt to flush them, it may take most – but do not be fooled into thinking that they are all gone.
Beneficials are both found in nature and which you buy and even stay inside and in the greenhouse is a great help. If you have many aphids, you should try to wash down (gently course) lige før nyttedyrene udsættes.
You can also choose to use the good old insect soap mixture of soft soap, sprit and careful – or in our latitudes slightly newer neem oil. The latter is not so delicate in aroma – worth knowing if you spray inside.
At the beginning of the season, When chili planters bloom, it is very normal that they throw a large portion of the flowers. Some years they can throw them all in a period, before they begin to keep them and put fruit, other years they throw just quietly a more normal number of flowers. What is usually depends on several things. Large plants with many small flowers will throw some of them continuously – they simply make too many. Plants with larger flowers throw typically a little less and for both types of flowers can also be dropped due to lack of pollination. Even in the windowsill with relatively still air, I have not experienced a lack of pollination as a problem – even when I forget to 'help’ plant, but when a plant continues to throw flowers instead of putting fruit should do like a causal. En simpel forklaring kan være manglende bestøvning. Shake the plant le by taking hold of the larger stems or trunk if possible and shake it easy. When the chillies are self-pollinating, pollen should not be so far (from the anther to the stigma of the same flower). A pollinated flower will usually seated if the plant is doing well.
For yderligere udfordringer med blomstertab – see below about the Sheets- and fruit loss. The reasons could also be the same for flowers.
Leaves and fruits dropped
…Further description on the way…
Griffelråd er irriterende fordi det kan være svært at finde ud af årsagen og rette op på grunden. Årsagen er en eller anden form for ubalance i vækstbetingelserne og jeg har kun set det på planterne i drivhus, ikke i vindueskarm – du kan læse mere om det på Havenyt her.
Det er oftest tykkødede chilifrugter som rammes og det er ikke usædvanligt at et par frugter eller mere på en plante får de grimme pletter, imens resten går fri. Fjern de angrebne frugter og se om der er noget i beskrivelsen på Havenyt som kan være årsagen hos dig. Det kan også ses på stænglerne. Klip straks det angrebne område af hvis du opdager det.
White 'mold' / mold in the surface
See the section on irrigation and fertilizer
The pesky little asses of small cabbage white butterfly (it's the little hvide) flap around and lay eggs as if they were on piecework. They are pretty and nice to have to fly around the garden and greenhouse – but their larvae eat like crazy – both leaves and fruits. The small bright green eggs and larvae can be removed manually (kvas dem) – and the task is too large can be sprayed on them with a, moreover approved for økobrug, spray product containing the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis – sold bla.a. under the name DIPEL. Krapylerne death within a few days and fruits are again your. If you have many of the butterflies, spraying may be repeated later. I've tried it – and it is effective.
If the plants are started up somewhere where they are not subjected to direct sunlight, and then at some point moved in the sun, risking one that solskolde them. It does not matter whether they are in the window sill, outside, or in the greenhouse. Direct sunlight is too harsh cost of a plant that is not used to it, like very hard sun for several days can be too much for a plant that would otherwise have been acclimated.
It is best to move the plant to its new grow room, when there are some days overcast skies. It also makes sense to screen off a portion of the sun's rays first while with ex. lyse gardiner eller andet lyst som filtrerer noget af det skarpe lys fra.
Sunburnt leaves can not be saved, but the plant can often if it is moved immediately it happened. There will usually grow new leaves out and you can choose to remove the scalded as new foliage takes over.
The fruits are bright or dark splotches of sunburn, where they practically sees' rot’ out, indeed they quickly come to, when the cell walls are degraded by being boiled.
The chili may be suffering from mold and especially the family close tomatoes and potatoes.
Mold gives some ugly black splotches on the leaves – it looks like mold – og det spreder sig hurtigt til frugterne og andre planter.
Remove affected leaves immediately and ventilate, ventilation, and air. Feather possibly. in the branches and remove the large leaves which sits close to the plants. Later in the season it can be very difficult to avoid mold – but there is nothing but ventilation, and a reasonable (lack of) humidity that can prevent it.
A doucning with an easy atamonopløsning might help, but I have not tried it yet though.
Spindemider laver spind som dækker planten mere og mere. De bekæmpes let med rovmider som købes i et lille rør hvor de er iblandet noget vermiculite. Rovmiderne er meget effektive.
See the section on irrigation and fertilizer
Chiliplanter er flerårige hvis man formår at give dem de rette betingelser. Planterne kan holdes i en slags dvale i de mørkere måneder eller de kan dyrkes videre inde om vinteren under plantelys.
Der er flere modeller for hvordan man kan gøre. Vi starter med en sund indeplante, som skal overleve vinteren for at bliver stor og flot næste sæson og skal kunne give lidt tidligere frugter end de forårssåede planter. Det allerletteste med sådan en plante er at lade den stå hvor den står – i.e.. i vindueskarmen, lade være med at klippe eller andet og så blot vande den sparsomt gennem vinteren. Den skal tørre ud mellem vandingerne, men ikke stå tør alt for længe – den er jo levende og vi skal ikke slå al grenmaterialet ihjel med for kraftig udtørring. Vær samtidig ekstra opmærksom hvis planten står over eller i nærheden af en radiator – så kan udtørringen pludselig gå stærkt. I løbet af vinteren er rent vand nok, den behøver ikke gødning. Det kan man starte op på igen til foråret. Til foråret kan man så potte planten op i en ny og større potte med frisk jord omkring rødderne. Fjern gerne så meget som muligt af det gamle jord og skulle der ryge lidt rødder med, så gør det ikke så meget. Dette gøres ca i marts/april måned. Hvis planten har overlevet fint men er blevet lidt trist at se på, kan man forårsbeskære den og give den frisk jord.
Planterne behøver ikke at stå i stuetemperatur gennem vinteren, men kan sagtens stå i et lidt køligere rum. Hvor langt ned man kan komme i temperatur og stadig have held til at holde liv i dem er jeg ikke klar over, men meget lavere end 12-15 grader vil jeg ikke selv stille dem. Lys er derimod vigtigt. Jeg har endnu ikke hørt om nogle som har haft held med at overvintre planterne i helt mørke, så en vindueskarm eller lidt plantelys skal der til. Her er LED plantepærer et godt og driftsbilligt bud.
Ovenstående giver nogle store flotte planter som kan blive større og mere imponerende år for år. Hvis man har pladsen, så synes jeg at det er en sjov måde at overvintre eks. en yndlingschinense på. Vil man derimod gerne overvintre planten i lidt mindre model – måske har man flere planter som der skal være plads til – så kan de beskæres og pottes ned i mindre potter for vinteren. Se første billedserie herunder.
Når man klipper grenene af planten er det vigtigt at der stadig er lidt blade eller ansats til blade tilbage (småbitte nye blade som er ved at titte frem inde ved grendelingerne). En nøgen stamme kan man godt være heldig at få til at skyde igen, men ofte er man det ikke og planten dør.
Se billeder nedenfor for eksempel på beskæring og nedpotning af en lidt ranglet chiliplante om foråret. Start- og slutpotten på billederne er hhv. ca 10 liter og 3 liter. Klik på et billede for at se det i større format og brug piletasterne for at bladre.
Til vinternedklipning vil jeg anbefale at man klipper lidt højere oppe sådan at man lader nogle flere blade være tilbage på planten – det giver større overlevelseschancer.
Man klipper hvor man har lyst alt efter om det er en førsteårsovervintring som skal fylde så lidt som muligt eller en 2-3-4 osv.-års overvintrer som man måske blot vil studse lidt. Da chiliplanterne jo normalt velvilligt skyder masser af nye skud, så klipper jeg gerne relativt langt inde mod stammen. Planterne stilles så lyst som man nu har mulighed for – enten i en vindueskarm eller under plantelys. Hvis de vokser sig for store før man synes at de skal, kan man sagtens studse dem undervejs. Vækstmønsteret er forskelligt og nogle planter kan også strække sig med lange tynde grene hvis de ikke har lys nok. Disse kan sagtens klippes undervejs. Sådanne lange grene klipper jeg typisk af sådan at der blot sidder et enkelt sæt blade eller to tilbage. Til foråret vil planterne gerne have frisk jord og evt. større potter og gødningen startes op som beskrevet ovenfor.
Her et eksempel på 3 planter i vindueskarm som er blevet beskåret og har vokset sig flotte igen.
Klik på et billede for at se det i større format og brug piletasterne for at bladre.
Hvis man ønsker at overvintre planter som har stået ude, er det nogenlunde samme model man bruger. Her er det dog vigtigt at man sikrer at der ikke er ubudne gæster med ind. En enkelt bladlus som man har overset, kan hurtigt blive til en hel hær af lus som det er stort set umuligt at slippe af med igen og som kan ødelægge alle planter indendøre. Lus kan være meget besværlige at slippe af med indendøre og resultatet kan blive at alle planter må smides ud. Når du tager planter ind udefra vil jeg derfor foreslå at du beskærer planten godt, renser rødderne så godt fri for jord som du kan uden at ødelægge for mange af dem. Vær især opmærksom på at fjerne jorden fra overfladen i potterne – her kan der ligge dyr/æg og gemme sig. Potte i rengjorte potter med frisk jord og så behandle forebyggende mod lus. Brug insektsæbe eller hvad du nu har god erfaring med ifb. lusebekæmpelse. Lus er naturligvis ikke de eneste skadedyr som du skal være opmærksom på. Gå planterne godt igennem og sæt ind overfor hvad du nu måtte finde. Jeg synes at planter som er taget ind udefra skal stilles i karantæne et godt stykke tid før de må være i samme rum som dem der har stået inde hele tiden – så jeg vil foreslå at de nyrensede og -klippede planter stilles i vindueskarmen i et rum for sig selv en månedstid.
Der findes 5 chiliarter som vi oftest støder på. There are several – men i daglig handel fås især frø til de 5. They are: Capsicum chinense, C. baccatum, C. frutescens, C. annular and C. pubescens. Below we know of thousands of varieties and more are constantly being discovered, respectively. bred by crossing.
De 5 ‘hoved’arter har nogle generelle kendetegn, but also so many dissenters within the varieties that I do not think that much can be finally determined by the nature.
However, it may make sense to look a little on the species alike yndlingschilier belongs. If consistent, the same – it is perhaps here one must look for new inspiration for next year's crop. Men prøv at checke om du har smagt noget fra dem alle – there are significant differences in the distribution and the number of varieties of different species.
The residue down chili species are wild. They can be just as fun to grow when you find seeds for them, as above. Google can help identify and possibly find seeds for them if they would be interested.
Man skal da lige præcis dyrke det som man synes er sjovt og spændende. Personligt har jeg efterhånden nogle favoritter og nye kommer til kontant – I eeeelsker example Habanero, all habanero – I think they are magnificent – and some of Aji'erne is also clear favorites – og Mole chilierne….men jeg vil da ikke undvære alle de andre, not to mention all the many that I have not tasted yet.
It's also fun to grow some with a funny look, I think… and in all colors…. og i forskellig størrelse osv. There is almost always a bit of all colors in my 'collection’ – white, so, brown, small, orange, yellow and red. Strong and mild. Large and small. Light plants and troublesome plants. When I shall as a new, kigger jeg på hvad jeg har i gang og hvilken slags jeg lige nu ‘mangler’ eller kommer til om et halvt års tid og frem når den modner.
One major thing that I've learned is that it does not matter when you start the varieties up. It is a mess to start the high, lanky plants (i.e.. Manga Father) up too early. The plants are some lanky bean takes that are difficult to handle and plant out when the time is. However, small bushy and / or slow plants it makes perfect sense to start early in order to achieve a long and fruitful season.